We had heard Lake Ohrid was beautiful, but we didn’t expect it to be this unforgettable!
This 4 day Lake Ohrid itinerary takes you around one of Europe’s oldest lakes, exploring both North Macedonia and Albania at a relaxed pace.
Lake Ohrid is supposedly over a million years old! We visited both sides of the lake in our campervan in October 2025, as part of our Balkans Road Trip.
On the shores of the lake we explored ancient villages, visited cliffside churches and beautiful beaches, and met some of the friendliest locals you’ll meet in the Balkans.
Whether you’re road-tripping from Skopje, exploring by campervan, or hiring a car for a short break, Lake Ohrid delivers an easy mix of culture, history, and pure relaxation.
In this guide, we take you around the lake clockwise starting from Ohrid. We will share the best things to see on Lake Ohrid, along with the best places to stay, eat, and explore along the way.
NAVIGATION NOTE: We circled Lake Ohrid anti-clockwise, but if we were doing it again, we’d go clockwise. Driving clockwise allows you the best opportunities to pull over for photo stops as you pass by historic villages, UNESCO sites, lakeside beaches, and quiet viewpoints.
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Day 1: Ohrid Town sightseeing
The town of Ohrid sits on the eastern shore of the lake. It is one of North Macedonia’s most important towns for tourism and one of the most beautiful. Even when we visited in October it was very busy with tour groups.
We really enjoyed walking through the town early in the morning before most of the crowds were up and about.
Ohrid is very walkable, though it is a bit of a hike up to the old fortress. The old town is full of cobblestone alleys lined with small shops and cafes. If you’d rather not find your own way around town, this 1.5 hour walking tour takes in all the important sites.
Things to see in Ohrid:
Ohrid is famously known as the town of 365 churches – one for every day of the year. While we didn’t count them, we certainly saw plenty here. The most beautiful is probably the Church of St. Jovan (Saint John at Kaneo) .
This church is perched dramatically on a clifftop overlooking the lake and it looks like something out of a fairytale. Climb up the hill behind the church for a great photo opportunity.
Entry to the church costs 150 Denar – like most of the churches in town.
We stumbled across the Ancient Theatre in the middle of town, surrounded by houses. It was used by the Romans (including for gladiatorial contests) before being buried and lost for centuries. The theatre was rediscovered in the 20th century.
Today this 2000 year old theatre is used for concerts and the annual summer festival. It is the only Hellenistic-type theatre in North Macedonia. We thought it was really cool that we could walk freely around the theatre at any time.
Samuel’s Fortress was named after Tsar Samuel of the First Bulgarian Empire (late 10th/early 11th century) when Ohrid was the capital. It is right on top of the hill overlooking the town and the lake.
Archaeological evidence shows the site was used as a fortification since at least the 4th century BC (possibly by Philip II of Macedon). Further diggings within the complex were being carried out at the time of our visit.
The fortress is open from 09:00 to 3pm and entry costs 150 Denar. There’s not a lot to see inside the fortress, but the entry fee allows you to climb up onto the walls. Well worth it for the 360 degree panoramic views alone.
Where to stay in Ohrid
We stayed overnight in our campervan in a large carpark just by the old town (we recommend negotiating the price!) There is a campsite on the north side of the town but it gets terrible reviews. To the south is Camperstop Divono which is around 20 minutes walk to town.
If you’re travelling by car, there are plenty of accommodation options in Ohrid, from family run guesthouses to fancy hotels.
Where to eat in Ohrid (and drink!)
We tried out a pale ale at the Pub & Pivnica Sokak in the heart of the old town. The bar snacks here were delicious (fried zucchini – yum!)
We can also vouch for the pizza at Leonardo’s. Not very typical of the area, but by the time we visited Ohrid, we had enjoyed more typical dishes in the villages (see below).
Day 2: Ohrid Town to Trpejca
20 km, driving time = 30 minutes
As you follow the shores of the lake, you will pass through a number of fishing villages, most notably Peshtani. This is a popular spot to stop in the warmer months, with its long beach. However, if you’re looking for a much quieter, more authentic village, we recommend continuing on to Trpejca. It’s a small, authentic village with very friendly locals.
Between Ohrid and Trpejca, you may wish to stop off at The Bay of Bones Archaeological site. This is a reconstruction of an old Pile Village that provides an insight into prehistoric life: You’ll see how people lived, fished, built, and connected with the lake environment some 3000 years ago.
There’s also a museum with the usual pottery and artefacts. The site was only discovered a few decades ago, and underwater exploration continues today. Experienced Scuba divers and beginners alike can explore the underwater site on a dive experience.
To be honest, we didn’t love the reconstructed village. We preferred the view looking down from the main road which we thought was great. However, if archeological finds and ancient artefacts are your thing, then this site is worthy of a short stop.
Entry costs 150 Denar, which covers the reconstructed village and the museum.
Trpejca
Trpejca (pronounced Truh-PAY-tsa) is a very small fishing village, which will give you a real taste of what life is like on Lake Ohrid. This was probably our favourite spot on the lake, and we ended up spending three nights here!
You can enjoy a stroll along the lake’s edge or even follow the tracks and lanes to the opposite side of the bluff where you will find another gorgeous bay, dotted with a few guesthouses and restaurants.
If you’re feeling more adventurous, you can walk another 2km south and you will reach the small church of the Holy Mother of God Zahumska.
Where to stay in Trpejca
There is a surprisingly good selection of guest-houses and apartments within Trpejca village.
For the RV/Campervan travellers, there is limited parking in the village. We wild camped on the nearby bluff, but there are a variety of campsites available within a 30 minute drive of the village. Just be sure to check the reviews on the Park4Night app before committing.
Where to eat in Trpejca
We strongly recommend you sample the local delicacy, freshly cooked trout from the lake. We enjoyed our first taste of fish dishes at the restaurant Ribar which is a charming family run taverna that sits right on the water’s edge!
We had the Ohrid Trout, which is stuffed with vegetables. DO NOT miss the Makalo, the most delicious garlic sauce we’ve ever tasted.
Day 3: Trpejca to Lin, Albania via St Naum Monastery and Pogradec
St Naum Monastery
After a short drive of around 25 mins you will arrive at St. Naum Monastery. The monastery was founded in the 9th century by St Naum and it’s one of the most important Orthodox sites in North Macedonia.
The church has very well preserved frescoes and the tomb of St Naum. It costs 150 Denar to enter. We were amazed at how worn the steps into the church are, I guess from thousands of years of footsteps.
The grounds are really well kept, there is a lovely sandy beach and resident peacocks. While there are signs warning visitors the peacocks can be aggressive, we watched the man at the church ticket booth hand feeding a peacock and then Nigel fed one too.
You can take a boat trip on the Drim River springs, (also known as the Source of the Black Drin).
There is a large carpark next to the monastery, we paid 200 Denar to park here, and they told us we could stay overnight in the carpark for €20. It’s free to walk through the grounds, you just pay to enter the church, and for a boat ride if you wish to do one.
Border Crossing to Albania
Another short drive will take you to the border crossing at Sveti Naum – Tushemisht. You should expect a delay of around 10–15 minutes here.
You can stop at Drilon National Park (Waterpark). Known for it’s tranquil canals, swans, and Enver Hoxha’s former summer residence. We were surprised to find this was not a “National Park” like we would expect, but rather a collection of cafes playing music along the shores of the small lakes! Hoxha’s residence has been turned into a restaurant.
As you drive along the shores of the lake towards Pogradec, you’ll see several bunkers. Apparently there were over 175,000 bunkers built during the communist era, and you’ll see them dotted all over Albania now.
Pogradec
Pogradec is a large town, so take advantage of the opportunity to visit an ATM to get some Albanian Lek. Albania is very much a cash society, most smaller restaurants and cafes only accept cash. However, if you have Euros cash you can usually pay in Euros, and sometimes you’ll even be given change in Euros.
You can also shop for fruit and vegetables, olives and other local produce at the local markets near the main roundabout. We’ve always found the quality and freshness of the produce in Albania to be really good.
Some Lake Ohrid itineraries might suggest stopping overnight in Pogradec, but we recommend continuing on to Lin.
Lin
We absolutely loved Lin! It is one of Albania’s prettiest villages, AND houses one of its most important archaeological sites. Lin is right on the shores of the lake, a small village with cobbled lanes, traditional stone houses, and locals selling handcrafts, preserves, and even fresh byrek at street stalls.
We loved the hike up to the archaeological site. We actually visited Lin twice, and the first time the site was closed. What we didn’t know is there is a phone number you can call (you’ll see it listed on the sign) and the caretaker will come and let you in.
The second time we visited Lin, the caretaker was on site, having just shown another family through. There didn’t appear to be an entrance fee, we gave a 1000 Lek donation for the two of us. The caretaker was away, but his wife and daughter were there. The daughter speaks good English. We’d actually met her the week previously when we were walking through Lin filming – she was most excited to meet some YouTubers!
The site houses the ruins of a Byzantine church dating back to the 6th century. The best part is the mosaic floor, which is very well preserved. You can continue walking along the top of the peninsula for fantastic views across the lake.
It would be easy to miss the Bunker Chapel which sits right out on the tip of the Lin Peninsula. We missed it the first time we visited Lin and came back especially to see it.
This “chapel” is housed in one of Albania’s 175,000 nuclear bunkers, remants of the communist era and paranoid dictator Enver Hoxha. Visitors to this bunker have added their own pieces of art and Orthodox icons. We thought it was one of the coolest things to see at Lake Ohrid.
From the bunker chapel, retrace your steps back down to the village. You may even bump into a local shepherd on the way down.
Alternatively, turn left just after the archaeological site and take the track around the tip of the peninsula along the shores of the lake back to the village. This is a beautiful walk, although there are a couple of places you’ll need to climb over some rocks.
Where to stay in Lin
We found a beautiful spot to wild camp on the shores of the lake not far from Lin. It’s obviously a popular spot, there were three or four other vans there too. We met some locals the next morning who invited us to share a glass of Rakija with them – at 10am!!
There are several guesthouses along the shores of the lake in the village of Lin, which would make a lovely place to stay.
Lin to Ohrid, via Radožda (completing the loop)
You will cross the border back into North Macedonia about 20 minutes after leaving Lin. This border crossing should be straightforward, we were asked for our passports, car registration papers and insurance when crossing into North Macedonia.
Radožda
This tiny fishing village isn’t on everyone’s radar, which is exactly why you should go. We spent several nights in this village, catching up on work and relaxing by the lake.
We really enjoyed the 15–20 minute walk up the hill (200 steps – we counted them!) to the Church of St. Archangel Michael, a small cave-church built directly into the cliff. This church dates back to the 13th century, and is known for it’s Byzantine frescoes.
What we didn’t know before we went, is that you can get a key for the church from the Two Pearls restaurant just at the beginning of the track. Even if you can’t go inside the church, you can enjoy some of the outdoor frescoes, and there is a little chapel if you’d like to light a candle.
Back in the village, wander the waterfront and jetty. It’s a great spot to cool off on a hot day.
We recommend the restaurant Two Pearls “Dva Bisera” for lunch. We had a delicious meal of Belvica (fish) caught fresh from the lake. After lunch, continue back to Ohrid to complete your loop.
If you have extra time, you could consider staying the night in Radožda. There is limited accommodation available in the town, itself and a wider choice at close by Struga.
If you’re in a campervan, we recommend Lakeside Camping 2. This is a small, quiet campsite right on the shores of the lake. It’s only a short walk from the village. We loved this place but if you’re visiting in summer you’ll need to book in advance as there are only about 5 pitches.
Got more time?
You could extend this 4 day Lake Ohrid Itinerary as long as you like, and include rest and relaxing days by the lake. Another option would be to add Lake Prespa (we loved the Turtle Trail hike near Dolna Gorica on the Albanian side).
The beautiful cultural town of Korcë is less than an hours drive from Pogradec, and makes a brilliant addition to this itinerary.
How to get to Lake Ohrid
By Air
The closest airport to Lake Ohrid is Ohrid St Paul The Apostle Airport, just north of Ohrid town. This is one of the country’s busier hubs, catering for international flights. The closest (and only at this stage) airport on the Albanian side is Tirana International Airport.
We recommend Skyscanner for searching for flight availability. You can rent a car from either airport for your Lake Ohrid Road Trip.
By Car
From Tirana take the A3 south east which will get you as far as Elbassan. From there the E852 series of roads will take you to Lin, and you could start your loop there.
Alternatively, if you are driving from Skopje, in 3 hours on the E65 you will find yourself in Ohrid to start the loop.
By Bus
You can take a bus from either Skopje or Tirana to Ohrid or Pogradec, and from there, local public buses will take you to the smaller villages. Check Omio or Gjiraffa Travel for schedules and pricing.
FAQs
Is Lake Ohrid worth visiting?
Absolutely!! Lake Ohrid isn’t just beautiful, we found it to be quite spiritual. With Byzantine churches, medieval fortresses, tiny fishing villages, and crystal-clear water framed by mountains, it will leave you with great memories.
It’s also refreshingly affordable compared to Western Europe, with great food, slow-paced lake life, and plenty of cultural depth.
When is the best time to visit Lake Ohrid?
The best months are May–June and September–early October. You will get warm weather, swimmable water, and far fewer crowds than peak July–August. Spring is lush and ideal for hiking; autumn brings golden colours and ok lake temperatures.
Winter can still be beautiful, but many restaurants and hotels close and there is a chance that the road closures due to snow and ice may jeopardise your travels.
How many days do you need in Lake Ohrid?
A minimum of 3 days lets you see Ohrid town, St Naum, and one or two lakeside villages. 5 days is good if you want to slow down, swim, walk, or explore both the Macedonian and Albanian sides of the lake without feeling rushed. However, if you enjoy nature, food, and a low-key lakeside life, it’s very easy to stay longer.
Can you swim in Lake Ohrid?
Yes, the water is sensational. The lake is fed by natural springs, so it’s incredibly clear and clean, with visibility down to the rocks. Whilst we didn’t get more than our feet wet (mid Oct 2025), we can report that there are beaches all around the shoreline. The water is warmest from late June to mid-September.
Is Lake Ohrid safe for tourists?
We felt very safe around Lake Ohrid, as we have everywhere in the Balkans. Most likely the biggest risks are more practical than criminal. I.e; uneven old-town staircases, afternoon heat in summer, and slippery paths near the water. You will encounter the most welcoming locals, and English is widely spoken in tourist areas.
Can you wild camp or free-camp around Lake Ohrid?
Yes, however there are a few caveats. Wild camping isn’t officially encouraged, BUT it’s tolerated as long as you’re discreet, respectful, and not on private or protected land. Many van-lifers park up on the quieter southern shores or the bluffs near Trpejca (as we did).
We also found several places to wild camp on the Albanian side. The Park4Night App is useful for scouting spots, and keeping things low-impact helps ensure it stays accepted for future travellers.
Check out our Lake Ohrid adventure travel films
We produced two travel films as we circled Lake Ohrid, one for the North Macedonian side and one for the Albanian (that also includes Lake Prespa).
Where to next?
This clockwise itinerary offers a perfect mix of historic sites, tranquil villages , lakeside beauty, and cultural experiences in just 4 to 5 days. From Lake Ohrid, continue your North Macedonia adventure with the quirky capital Skopje, or, why not trade the lake for the sea and head to the Albanian Riviera.
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